MakeUp in Paris provides a cozy atmosphere.

Cosmetics Shine at MakeUp in Paris

The third edition of this colorful exhibition grew double digits and drew a global crowd to the lower level of the Louvre.

Written by Jamie Matusow, Editor

The recently curated Leonardo da Vinci exhibit, which included the restored masterwork “The Virgin and Child with Saint Anne,” wasn’t the only reason visitors were lining up to descend the escalators inside the gleaming glass pyramids fronting the Musée du Louvre.

While admittedly different in scale and content than one of the world’s largest and foremost museums, the adjacent Carrousel du Louvre was the enticing venue for the third edition of MakeUp in Paris, which drew more than 70 exhibitors for its June 21-22 run. An international crowd of beauty decision makers from across the marketing, formulation and packaging spectrum made the most of the opportunity for one-on-one and small group meetings with some of the industry’s top suppliers.

Booths at the event were arranged for intimate conversations, with a number of spaces curtained off for client and new product discretion. In addition to the many innovations showcased in the gallery-like space, dramatic makeup and nail demonstrations—and the stirring notes of a meandering cellist—contributed to the animated mood.

An expanded conference schedule, with at least 20 individual presentations and roundtables during the two days, satisfied attendees’ quest for global brand and market news and experts’ views.

Show organizer Jean-Yves Bourgeois, director Beauteam, expressed his pleasure with the success of the event, telling Beauty Packaging it “was exactly what they had wanted.” He said,“The marketing teams from brands want to see trends and formulations.”

In fact, when the tally was in, more than 2,100 attendees had been recorded, up 13% over the previous year, with the number of foreign visitors rising 45%. Marketing professionals accounted for over a third, at 35%, followed by R&D and sales.

As far as the breakdown of exhibitors, Bourgeois said 60% of exhibitors were in formulation, 30% in packaging and 10% in accessories.

Show Floor Tour

A tour of the easy-to-navigate show floor yielded an exciting assortment of innovative items from sweeping, rhinestone-imbued false eyelashes, to light-up lipstick bullets, to lipstick tube sleeves, to silky eye shadows that gave the appearance of several shades all in one. Multiple cosmetics in one palette, semi-permanent and stick-on makeup and dual-duty products were also noted as trends.

Eyes and Lips

Mascaras and lipglosses remain ever popular and several suppliers offered new options.

Lashes of the World and Lips of the World were two telling collections previewed by Geka Group that addressed the various needs of consumers from different ethnicities, and from regions throughout the world. Pilar Gonzalez-Gomez, vice president marketing, Geka Group, explained that the products in these lines target different ethnicities, from, for example, tiny mascara brushes ideal for Asian women with small, short straight lashes, to large, full brushes for Indian and African women who tend to have strong, thick lashes.

The same principles apply to lips. For consumers with full lips, Geka created an applicator with two holes to release more product for better coverage.

Gonzalez-Gomez said demand is high for mascara brushes “nicely matched with wipers, that show they’re doing their job.” This was evidenced in the slight resistance encountered when pulling the brush through the bottle opening.

Mascara and lip applicators were also in full array at OEKAbeauty, where Frank Bierkandt, director sales, marketing, innovation, pointed out a few novelties such as an applicator with a flexible area that swipes over lips. Here, too, were small brushes created with the Asian consumer in mind. OEKA- beauty’s latest lacquering technique uses a vertical effect that’s ideal for PET lipgloss cases. A combination of colored and clear areas reveals the gloss while the larger part of the content remains protected from direct light. A rainbow tint in a vertical direction is possible.

Chemicos Creations, a contract manufacturer that specializes in liquid eyeliners, serves manufacturers in Japan, Korea and worldwide. Lots of different tubes, from bright solids to metallic to bold designs create the look of accessories. The company was also showcasing its fine line fake tattoo pen.

A range of cylindrical bottle shapes and brushes was available at Brivaplast, an Italian company, which specializes in mascara, lipgloss and lipstick. One high-quality pack featured a patented wiper and a satisfying “click” closure. The all PP cap and bottle can be decorated with hot stamping or metallization.

Pascual Cosmetiques showcased a number of hydrating SPF-protectant lipsticks, including what it says is the first transparent lipstick. The bullet elevated in the center lights up via a small battery.

Pascual Cosmetiques showcased a number of hydrating SPF-protectant lipsticks, including what it says is the first transparent lipstick, which can be colored or clear. The bullet can even be illuminated, courtesy of a small battery. When you turn the tube, the light goes on and the bullet glows; twist down and the light goes off. The formulation is in finalization.
Manual rotating brushes were a featured product at FS Korea.

Aesthete, which has provided packaging for brands from Dior to Jimmy Choo, also featured novelties such as candy cane eye pencils.

Nail Care

Sleever, known for its use of shrink sleeves to decorate bottles, was highlighting the sleeves for use on cosmetic components from lipstick tubes to nail polish bottles. Stéphane Stanton-Brand, project manager, told Beauty Packaging, “The U.S. is behind in its perception of using sleeves for decorative purposes.” Sleeves can be supplied on lipsticks to apply texture. Explaining Sleever’s 26-color nail polish collection, Stanton-Brand says, “It’s the first time a sleeve is used to represent color.” This way, the sleeve can be changed at the last minute, instead of re-stocking.” Another benefit of the sleeve: It offers UV protection.

With nail care booming throughout the world, many exhibitors were highlighting the category with its tremendous DIY potential.

At HCT, Rebecca Goswell, creative director, told Beauty Packaging that one trend for fall is deep, dark, multicolored nails, using metallics, two-tone berries and shades of green. HCT is looking at nail polish bottles that feature “different gestures, different methods of applying the color.” Goswell stressed that a prestige look at a mass price “is hot,” and added, “There’s never been a better time for private label.” She said people will trade down as long as they get value, so brands should give consumers extra rather than less. “People are fighting their way out of the recession and are willing to spend on products that can tell a story,” said Goswell.

Cosmogen was featuring its “whole new specialized nail brush range for nail art,” as demonstrated to Beauty Packaging by Mylene Meunier, VP sales U.S. and France.

At Topline, a full service manufacturer, Sandra Hutson was previewing the company’s innovative new nail art pen, not yet on the market. The finely engineered tip makes it possible for even amateurs to draw intricate designs. A series of pens in various colors also includes one perfect for a polished French manicure look.

World of Color

Topline also highlighted the current trend in pressed and baked powders, with multiple hues contained in one eyeshadow. One luxury palette, embossed in a river rocks pattern enables consumers to swirl them together with a brush and apply for all-over luminescence.

Oxygen Development, located in a 220,000-sq.-ft facility in Palm Springs, FL, is a full turnkey operation, specializing in the development and production of premium cosmetics, skin care, hair care and bath & body care, from mass to class. Musa Pharand Dias, global vice president sales & marketing, enthusiastically demonstrated a number of innovative products, including a long-wear bronzer and a long-wear eye shadow that’s water-resistant, doesn’t transfer and lasts from 12-16 hours. Another technology featured a face powder that adjusts to skin tone, so brands can offer just several shades; it can go from dark to light, or light to dark. A double-duty foundation, Perfect Fit fills in lines and pores, evens color and fosters a whitening effect. Lumiere eye shadow plays with light in a way that makes a single eye shadow look like there are several tones. Apply wet and it automatically contours and changes colors depending on the angle.

Full service innovation and contract manufacturing for all ranges of beauty are key to the rapid success of four-year old Genealogy, a New York-based creator and manufacturer of skin care and makeup formulations founded by Brian Fox-Krawczyk.

Ryan Lopez, East Coast director of sales for Genealogy, demonstrated some of the firm’s latest innovations, developed in its own lab, including an encapsulated lipgloss and encapsulated duo diamond pressed powder.

Compacts at P.R. Plastic featured genuine and synthetic mother of pearl designs.

Kits, Compacts and Jars

Topline’s full makeup kit, which folds up into a small convenient pack, satisfies the on-the-go consumer, while a new palette with a four-way slide lends interest to opening and closing.

Small compacts at P.R. Plastic, an Italian manufacturer of packaging for pressed powders featured beautiful genuine mother of pearl designs as well as various synthetic resins.

A powder container at FS Korea featured a round disk that contained loose powder. Two holes in a rotating brush allowed for a greater release of the product.

Glass is in as a beautiful and recyclable means of housing creams and color as well as skin care and fragrance, and SGD was showcasing its line of sparkling clear glass cosmetics jars.

Kits were definitely in at HCT, where a number of the company’s successful developments in metal, plastic and cardboard packaging were on display—many for which HCT provided full service. HCT also develops trend reports, and in one of the sessions at MakeUp in Paris, Goswell presented a fascinating look at the directions color will take in the year ahead (see sidebar “Color Trends 2013-2014”).

Jia Hsing Enterprises, from Taiwan, which has been in business since 1967, featured metallized plastic jars and compacts in rounded dome and square shapes. Duo-end lipsticks, duo brushes and lip stain packaging with a cotton wick were among the company’s innovative and attractive offerings.

Sampling

Lipstick samplers at Orlandi.

Orlandi, a U.S. company founded in 1865, specializes in sampling solutions from blotters to test strips, on-counter to mailings, for fragrance and cosmetic companies. President and CEO Sven Dobler told Beauty Packaging that Orlandi was the first company to introduce sample blotters on the American market—in 1915. The ColorKiss features a direct applicator with the actual formula. For instance, for lipstick, just peel off the transparent cover on the card, fold the card in half, press lips against the card—and voilà —a perfect application. For fragrance, Tat2Go provides an instant, scented tattoo.

Accessories

From a vast assortment of colorful pencil sharpeners at Eisen and M&R Cosmetics to removable tattoos and lengthy false eyelashes in innumerable shades and combos enhanced with glitter and rhinestones, accessories were in full swing.

At Marbella, luxury body jewels and fashion accessories included removable tattoos—flaunted by many visitors at the show—and press-on eyeliners.

Who knew how vast the choices are when it comes to cosmetic sponges? Thousands of puffs, sponges, flocked foam applicators, compact accessories—even gloves for self-tanning—were available at SLG. The company manufactures all goods in the UK.

OEKAbeauty’s Stylo Pen is ideal for precise skin or nail treatment, as it can apply liquids and creams easily and precisely.

Visitors to Cosmogen’s stand were swept away by the many brushes being shown. An on-the-go brush set, which featured four different tips—for eyebrow, eye shadow, lips and smudge—was especially popular. Neon brushes on display had taken their cue from the clothing industry. A new technique enables Cosmogen to make precise letters and logos in brush heads.

Beauty Inside

Another refreshing component of the show was literally in the drinks gratuitously provided for attendees—in addition to a daily complimentary luncheon.

Beauty drinks may be a trend that’s been slow to catch on in the U.S. but it’s aiming for a resurgence as consumers become more interested in beauty and health remedies they can imbibe.

Ocoo, available in two berry flavors, takes its name from cocoon, which represents transformation, from a gray sac to a beautiful butterfly. Said to be beneficial for hair, nails and skin, the drink contains just 48 calories and no sugar—and tastes great. It’s packaged in a 100% recyclable aluminum can, and is marketed toward both women and men.

Innovation Awards

For the first time, MakeUp in Paris presented a number of innovation awards to exhibitors. More than 20 companies submitted 30 entries in four categories: full service, packaging, formula, accessories and samples. The packaging award went to LF Beauty for Noir G de Guerlain.

A Glowing Review

Both exhibitors and attendees appeared happy with MakeUp in Paris. HCT’s Goswell gave the show a high rating: “It’s been a very good show, and we’ve gotten loads of interest from big beauty groups in terms of private label.”

HCT will also participate in the second edition of MakeUp in New York, which will take place September 12-13, at Studio 450, 450 West 31st Street, New York, NY.

Genealogy, which will be returning to MakeUp in NY, also reported a successful show at the Paris venue. Lopez told Beauty Packaging: “We even saw lots of people making the trip from American companies.”

In addition to many repeat exhibitors at the NY show, Bourgeois said there will be a number of new exhibitors this year. Last year’s NY show featured 24 exhibitors; this year it will accommodate 35, and has also expanded its roster of roundtables and sessions, including one on full service, moderated by Jamie Matusow. Stay tuned to Beauty Packaging for details.

Additional photos at nitesh_bp.rodpub.com

Global Market Trends roundtable with (L-R): Héléna Garcia de Gracia, marketing director of the Brazilian company Eudora, O’Boticario Group; Musa Pharand-Dias, VP marketing, Oxygen Development; Leila Rochet-Podvin, founder of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation; Carolyn Moulin, international design trends analyst; Thomas Weckerle, CEO of the German firm Weckerle; Jamie Matusow, Beauty Packaging magazine Global Market Trends With visitors and suppliers from around the globe in attendance, MakeUp in Paris presented a roundtable on Global Market Trends, with participants from Europe, Asia, South America (Brazil) and the U.S., led by show organizer Jean-Yves Bourgeois, director Beauteam, and Jamie Matusow, editor of Beauty Packaging magazine. Here are some of the highlights: •Brazil’s cosmetics market is exploding, with 35% penetration of makeup. There’s a need to bring “newness.” Increased accessibility to suppliers and contractors is needed for production—thus the idea: Think global, but have local capabilities. •Consumers in Brazil and China need to be educated about the use of cosmetics. •There’s a growing need to address consumers of all ethnicities. •In Asia, a visual approach to beauty through fonts is popular. Caligraphy, purity, and tradition also play roles. •The complexion-whitening trend remains strong in Asia. Color cosmetics shades vary from city to city, from Shanghai to Beijing. •Japan is going through a critical economic period, leading to new packaging (due to energy conservation). Thus, Japan is anticipated to be “ingenious” with packaging, such as in its use of refills. •While most name brands are available in China, many new Chinese brands are emerging. •Innovation enables development. •Private label has become a strong competitor with bigger brands. •More than 50% of all cosmetic products have passed through outsourcing services prior to reaching store shelves.

Story board for HCT’s Urban Impressionism color palette. Color Trends 2013-2014 It’s always fascinating to learn how companies determine which colors will resonate with consumers. So HCT’s creative director Rebecca Goswell’s session on how she forecasts color trends drew a crowd. She started her presentation saying, “It was the best of times, it was the worst of times,” referring to an off-kilter market, with BRIC countries bursting with life, while Europe and North America remain troubled by economic and unemployment problems. Goswell identified three distinct color forecasts: Urban Impressionism takes its influence from the inner city, with a hardness, deconstructed trends and an architectural influence—a “reclaim the streets” vibe. Here, consumers can find beauty in everyday life with shades of muted blue, purple, dull metals, concrete and geometric forms. “A freedom of forms creates an androgynous feel,” said Goswell. Bubbalicious lightens the mood with an “if you can’t cope with it, ignore it” attitude. Its colors are fun, silly and optimistic. The “more girly” color palette is stronger than pastels, with “more fruit-like colors.” China Girl acknowledges that China is “doing it bigger, better, smarter.” But Goswell explained there’s also a resurgence to go back to its heyday as well, and noted, “Women were powerful in China’s past.” China Girl plays on the vintage trend, as these consumers “adore anything with provenance,” said Goswell. “An attention to detail, tortoiseshell and lacquer in the packaging, along with a rich, sumptuous, velvety palette celebrates the rise of the Chinese lady. “Creativity is pivotal to creating an engaging dialog,” said Goswell. “Keep current, innovate and connect with the public. If you don’t do all those, you [disappear].”

A vibrant, activity-filled show floor	Rebecca Goswell, HCT Group, whose booth celebrated the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee
One of the makeup demos on the show floor	Geka’s makeup artist Michele Burke (L) and Pilar Gonzalez-Gomez, Geka Group
OEKAbeauty’s Frank Bierkandt	Orlandi’s president and CEO Sven Dobler